Our Day at the DMZ

July 16th 2016

Our visit to the DMZ was rescheduled several times so far during this trip because of military exercises taking place. We were able to secure seats on a tour run by a specific DMZ tour group for Saturday July 16th. Both Jonathan and I found the day to be quite strange. It was a very touristy experience of what is considered to be an active war zone. We weren't sure whether to smile in pictures or to look serious. Where and when we were allowed to take photographs was very limited and it was obvious that spoke to us had a particular narrative that they provided to our group.

I was very interested to hear the tour guide talk about the DMZ as an extension of the Cold War that has never ended. She talked about the Korean Peninsula being united under the Joseon Dynasty, then being occupied by the Japanese and then divided by China, the Soviet Union and the United States in 1945.

The actual military demarcation line runs close to but not exactly on the 38th parallel. It is a low wire that can easily be stepped over. In order to reduce tensions a 2 kilometer buffer was established on either side of the line, this 4 kilometer stretch is know as the Demilitarized Zone. In addition, the South Korean side established a few additional kilometers that it calls the Civilian Security Line that is heavily fortified by the South Korean military. No South Korean citizen can cross the CSL line nor the DMZ without explicit government permission, for that reason South Koreans are not allowed to participate in the tours of the DMZ.

After hearing about the division of the peninsula by other governments during our drive from Seoul towards the Civilian Security Line, we arrived at the location of what is known as the third tunnel. In the time after the 1953 armistice agreement North Korea dug at least four tunnels under the DMZ reportedly to attack the south. We were able to go down into the tunnel but not to take pictures. At this location there was also a small museum with information about the region and a symbolic sculpture continuing to call for reunification.

Next we went to an observatory where it was possible to see the actual demarcation line as it stretches through the rice paddies and countryside. Ironically the 4 kilometer stretch has become one of the most biologically diverse areas of wildlife in the country. This particular day was extremely rainy so our view was minimal. Many of the tourists took pictures with the South Korean military members at the site. There were also sovereign shops that sold "DMZ" themed gifts.

Our next stop was the Dorasan Station which is the northern most station of the Korean subway line. This station was completed in an era before the current South Korean president. The concept was for Koreans to take the subway to Dorasan, then connect to an inter-Korean rail line that could take passengers throughout Asia, the Middle East and Europe. U.S. President George W. Bush came to the station and signed one of the railway ties supporting the increasing collaboration between the north and south. The station also had a part of the Berlin Wall as donated by Germany. The wall has a permanent display on one side showing the length of time that Berlin was divided into East and West (just over 40 years) on the other side is an electronic clock that continues to track the length of time that Korea has been divided (over 70 years and counting).

The next stop on our tour was the "Friendship Bridge" named and built by CEO if Hyundai. He was born in the north but escaped to the south and stole a cow along the way. He sold the cow to start his business ventures, eventually creating a huge company. He wanted to return the cow plus fifty years interest so he build the friendship bridge and transported 1,001 cows to North Korea. At this site he also built a large venue where Korean families separated from the division of the peninsula could meet to celebrate holidays and special occasions. This area is outside of the CSA so South Koreans can travel there and the longing for reunification, not just of governments but of parents and children is obvious in this location because of all of the prayer ribbons tied to barbed wire.

We could see the road to the Kaesong Industrial complex in the distance. This large system of factories was build during the sunshine policies of South Korea (there is a folktale that the sun and the wind were competing to get a man to take off his coat, the wind blew and blew and the man only held his coat tighter, the sun warmed him up and the man took off his coat- this was the philosophy of cooperation supported by former South Korean presidents). The Kaesong Industrial Complex is located within North Korean territory and employed North Korean workers and the products moved between the two nations. However, this January (2016) the current hard line South Korean President Park closed the factories by executive order.

Next we had our passports checked again, signed papers that no one was liable if we got hurt / killed and then crossed over into the CSA. We had a slide show of the complex including a bit of history. The presentation showed the layout of buildings within a neutral zone, this is where the building is located that is half on the north, half on the south where the 1953 armistice was signed. Prior to 1976 there was a mix of north and south Korean building throughout the property and soldiers of the two regions moved freely between the buildings. However, in 1976 two United Nations soldiers who were from the United States when to trim the branches of a large poplar tree that was blocking the sites between two check points. The north did not like them trimming the tree and the argument escalated to violence, resulting in the two Americans being killed by axes. This incident nearly launched the two nations back into full fledged war but the north quickly sent an apology letter. The tree was eventually cut down and the two sides moved their buildings into alignment on both sides of the demarcation line watching one another 24/7.

We were able to take pictures of the soldiers standing guard and were able to cross into the building where the armistice was signed, technically walking over the demarcation line into North Korean territory.

Our trip out of the DMZ / CSA took us past the Bridge of No Return where prisoners of war were giving the option to go to the north or the south but once they crossed they were not permitted to change their minds and return. We also passed several signs along the road warning of land minds which are still active in the region.

Dear God, today we pray for wisdom and understanding. We pray for those who serve in active conflict zones as members of the military, civilians, or humanitarian aid workers. May you bless O God families separated by conflict. May we continue to learn history and listen to multiple perspectives. Most of all O God help us to follow your will and to seek peace through grace and understanding. Amen.